The Austrian gastro-winebar
Claim to fame: Berlin’s most reputable wine bar, a notorious late-night hangout for chefs
Reason to go: The 1000+ bottle wine cellar with one of the best, contemporary selections in Berlin
To look out for: The secret behind wine bar’s cheeky name, cunningly revealed in an unexpected way
Austrian wine bar and modern time institution Cordobar is the after-service watering hole for Berlin’s discerning restaurateurs. It’s where knowledgeable owner and host Willi Schlögl delights guests with recommendations from his extensive cellar, and where Chef Waal Sterneberg, a young gun that recently took over after Lukas Mraz, relieves their hunger with a contemporary bar menu. A glass of Codobar’s custom made Kabinett Riesling from Julian Haart (Schlögl calls it “lemonade for adults”) is a phenomenal sparring partner for a brill that’s served with reduced cream and hemp. A biodynamic Spätburgunder is astutely paired with Sterneberg’s signature beef tartare, enhanced by seasonal additions such as chanterelles and fried black bread. Cordobar’s former signature dish, the blood sausage pizza, is nothing more than a distant memory as the new chef has transformed the menu from its Asian-leaning focus to a more cosmopolitan, balanced culinary experience.
The Schlögl-Sterneberg combo is a fresh but very promising partnership, under their influence Cordobar is on the way to truly establishing itself in the upper echelon of casual wine bars. Cordobar is far from simply a watering hole for food pros, it’s also a restaurant that unceasingly seeks to challenge the paradigm of German dining. Add the outstanding hosting expertise of owner Schlögl and you have one of the more interesting gastro destinations in Berlin.
The name, you wonder? It takes a bathroom visit to figure it out. Pay attention and you’ll hear a soccer game audio commentary on continuous loop informing you that Cordobar was where Austria celebrated a monumental win over Germany in the 1978 world cup.