Rebellious culinary escapades in Neukölln
Claim to fame: Rowdy and tattooed modern bistro feasting in Neukölln
Reason to go: The seasonal take on beef tartar and the superb selection of natural wines
To look out for: Their natural wine bar Wild Things around the corner
Surrounded only by casinos, falafel shops and grilled chicken joints, the 2015 opening of Industry Standard put the neighborhood of Neukölln on the map of serious eating. In a makeshift venue, a raucous crew of inked chefs from all over the world is somehow reined in by Ramses Manneck, a Mexican native who spent his first years in Berlin establishing a couple of Mexican restaurants before he got obsessed with advanced cooking during a stint at Maemo in Oslo. He then started cooking food inspired by St. John’s and Rochelle Canteen in London.
Fueled by accolades, touted as Berlin’s most innovative and entertaining version of the modern bistro concept, Industry Standard has quickly made a name for itself. It’s marvelous beef tartar also helped, served with horseradish yoghurt, fermented red cabbage, tiny pieces of crispy chicken skin and plenty of browned butter. A crucial component of the restaurant’s success is the playful yet sophisticated adaptation of comfort food, spotted in the likes of pickled and braised pigs’ tongues with tomatoes and wild garlic or crispy pork belly with clams in their broth, all small plates designed to be shared family-style. Another not-to-be-missed signature dish is the seasonal riff on the roasted bone marrow, the extraordinary iteration with clams and Japanese algae being a favorite. The dessert, a perfect piece of lemon curd pie is pretty spot-on too.
At first glance Industry Standard may look like a simple undertaking, but this rambunctious bunch of chefs definitely know how to cook, the typical Neukölln makeshift vibe is a clever, casual setting for this crew. Their own manifest sums it all up perfectly “For drinking, fighting, feasting, lusting, larding and barding, reverent riffs on deserved classics, come to Neukölln. We will feed you.”