A world famous restaurant’s kid sister takes center stage
Claim to fame: La Colombe’s celebrated chefs, offering a more relaxed dining concept
Reason to go: Innovative gastronomy with international sparkle in the renowned Constantia Valley
To look out for: Chef Glen Foxcroft Williams showcases his pastry perfection at the in-house bakery
Check out this kid sister, slamming pot lids in the kitchen and learning tricks from her big brother! Foxcroft is global star-dining spot La Colombe’s younger sibling, a child who’s not content to let her hoity-toity brother steal all the limelight. Foxcroft is sly, but don’t be fooled, she’s not riding on her brother’s coattails, she’s earning accolades all by herself.
She is the brainchild of La Colombe’s executive chef, Scot Kirton and his longstanding pastry chef Glen Foxcroft Williams, hence the chic dining room and the inviting bakery. She’s also a natural next-step move to grow this iconic brand.
Bold, dark, deeply slick and sexy, Foxcroft is a vixen that beckons you inside, showing off studded leather, polished concrete floors, contrasting timbers and bright coppers. The interiors are as carefully creative as the fare, which is masterfully executed in true Kirton-Foxcroft Williams style. Casual clipboard menus belie the complexity of the food that takes its cues from cuisines near and far. Oysters are champagne poached and served warm, balancing on a bed of pebbles. The clever combination of squid and chorizo is served ajo blanco-style with wild garlic. Fast becoming a firm signature dish, finger-friendly Korean fried sesame chicken has buttermilk espuma for dunking. Totally inventive, and a first on local menus, is the dirty steak with anchovy, guasacaca and pickled cucumber. Fermented chili mayonnaise and house-made ponzu accompany seasonal vegetable tempura offerings. Bite-sized croquettes are made from smoked pig’s head and plated perfectly with curried sultanas, piccalilli and crème fraiche, adorned with pretty garden petals. Sustainable yellowtail, caught in close-by Cape waters, becomes ceviche with kohlrabi kimchi, burnt orange and tiger’s milk, which some hopefuls think of as aphrodisiacal. Duck breasts are dry-aged for seven days and partnered with fermented plum, turnips, gem squash and kale. Taking center stage in the restaurant is a glassed-in room housing charcuteries and some of South Africa’s finest cheeses, as well as a well curated selection of international hot-shots, all served with homemade preserves, biscuits and breads from the in-house bakery. On the sweet side, desserts are plated with beguiling precision in the way of elderflower doughnuts, litchi milk ice and raspberries. Strawberries are compressed and served with toasted croissant and mascarpone.
It’s only fitting that this stylish restaurant is situated in the bespoke High Constantia Shopping Centre, at the leafy gateway to South Africa’s oldest winery, Groot Constantia. The staff looks impeccable in posh uniforms, delivering top-end smooth service. Wine knowledge is commendable as they respectfully pay homage to the Constantia Valley wine greats on their doorstep.