A revamped Bornholm kitchen kicks the ball into a whole new field
Claim to fame: Upping the New Nordic game by almost solely focusing on produce from the small island of Bornholm.
Reason to go: The 22 courses of pure, natural chlorophyll-bright delights served in an exclusive yet warm environment where fires blaze both in- and out of the kitchen.
To look out for: Exciting twists on “vegetables”; candied pinecones, cowslip syrup and a cornucopia of fermented fruits and berries.
The Bornholm Board of Tourism could hardly have dreamed of better ambassadors than the trio behind Kadeau. Their gastronomic vision is crystal clear: to convey the very essence of this Baltic island through its produce and flavors. A sizeable part of the kitchen team even relocates here during the summer season to forage, harvest and preserve. The resulting fermented, pickled and dried treasures are used in mind-bendingly elaborate yet unfussy dishes.
The flagship restaurant in Christianshavn recently underwent a complete renovation. When entering this temple of super-regional cuisine you are guided along a corridor toward the heart of the restaurant. It is like stepping into a peaceful private home, an oasis with a pulsating kitchen and an integrated dining area. Large glass panels face the courtyard where wooden logs have been ornately piled and a flickering fire contributes to the golden luster suffusing the room. The ambience is exceptional. So is the chef and co-owner Nicolai Nørregaard’s 22 course meal. The sheer catalogue of aromas is wonderfully diverse, acidity is a common denominator and powerful green hues create a verdant color base for the Bornholm meadow-tinted cooking. Conserved summer vegetables arranged in a thousand thin layers, decked out with gooseberries, trimmed like a Japanese work of art in a clear, fermented tomato juice with beads of oil, notes of chamomile and cream cheese – the flavors are intense and so are the wine pairings that often lift the complex creations even higher. The menu culminates with a pork belly roasted over the open fire, accompanied by black garlic, blackcurrant and salty flower buds, the pig hits home with its meaty simplicity and crunchy rind, creating true bliss with a perfectly chosen Côte-Rôtie, taking the main course head on with flavors of dark berries, figs and liquorice.
The craftsmanship and resourcefulness are magnificent, while at the same time maintaining an informal and heart-warming atmosphere. Kadeau Copenhagen finds true strength in that small wild island far from the capital.