Masters of Yum
Claim to fame: Latino comfort food reinterpreted by ex-Noma chef and colleagues
Reason to go: The warm, welcoming atmosphere on a chilly Copenhagen night.
To look out for: Far-from-Nordic ingredients like lucuma, yuca, hibiscus and tonka
The three talented chefs Diego Munoz, Emilio Macias and Karlos Ponte from Peru, Mexico and Venezuela respectively have created the trans-latino concept that is PMY. Previously the venue was occupied by Ponte’s acclaimed Venezuelan fine dining venture Taller, however, it was recently revamped into a more relaxed and folksy street food fiesta, broadening the cuisine also to encompass Mexico and Peru. The vibe is fun and friendly, the dining room colorful and the service swift.
The acronym pays tribute to three key ingredients Papa (potato) from Peru, Maiz (corn) from Mexico and Yuca (cassava) from Venezuela. They all share central stage in the tasty appetizer of blue potato in huricana sauce with grilled baby corn and deep fried yucca accompanied by a tart crème of Venezuelan coriander. We opted to pair the dish with the Guarapita de Parchita cocktail and were instantly rewarded with blasts of acidity, fruit and heat from the rum, lime, passion fruit, tonka and chili in this well-balanced concoction. The cocktails and the thoughtful beer selection would actually suffice as beverage pairings, but there’s also a small, well-curated collection of interesting South- and Latin American wines.
Food is served family style, in bowls and on platters that are mixed charmingly, and the menu is as sympathetic and versatile as the knowledgeable waiters from all over the world. Long menu, short menu, everything on the menu, à la carte? No problem, just pick exactly how you prefer your meal, but by all means don’t miss out on the tart and spicy Peruvian ceviche with fresh, local-caught fish in tigre de leche with celery slivers, sweet potato and roasted corn. The biggest hit from Venezuela are the blistery crisp deep fried arepas with their mouthwatering filling of pulled beef and cheese–a remnant from Taller where they were served in an amuse-ish mini version. The Mexican contributions are, of course, tortillas both in tostada-form with a fresh topping of avocado and crab, and as a finger licking soft version with crackly-tender carnitas and guacamole.