A wine adventure, with good funk
Claim to fame: The beef tongue gribiche sammy
Reason to go: Chef-Owner, Keirin Buck, Burnt Ends’ former sous chef
To look out for: natural wines celebrating leisure over label
We’re not saying they’re lushes or anything, but some Singaporeans are licking up every last drop of the city’s natural wines. It’s all going down at Le Bon Funk where you should be sure to also try the “fine-casual” fare by Canadian-Japanese Chef-Owner and Burnt Ends alum, Keirin Buck.
Despite his heritage, Buck’s cuisine does not toe the Canadian- or Japanese line and neither is it restrained by geographical boundaries. Instead, his access to ingredients drives the design of dishes in his daily-changing à la carte menu. With the fresh vegetables he receives from France and Japan, he fashions minimalistic vegetable crudités (Tokyo turnip, French radish, Japanese suzu pumpkin, red endives, Okinawa spinach and French pineapple tomatoes) alongside a dip of cured pollack roe topped with a dusting of dried osmanthus flower. On the other end of the calorie scale, he fields sweet cedar jelly spread over buttered brioche topped with cognac-cured frozen foie gras shavings––perfect if you’re not on a diet, too bad if you are. But the dishes that receive the greatest plaudits are the ones with carnivorous intentions. Paper-thin slivers of brined beef tongue enveloped in a creamy and tart gribiche sauce arrive as a “sammy” (Canadian and American slang for sandwich) in between toasted brioche buns, a successful exercise in meaty rusticity. The same goes for the homemade cavatelli semolina pasta with beef tripe smothered in a hearty yet funky tomato and red wine-based stew of beef tripe, pig’s head and Calabrian peppers spiked with ‘nduja.
This 57-seat space on Club Street is kitted out more like a bar than an eatery but the foodies amongs us know that the best seats in the house are the six that abut an open kitchen. At any one time, the bar has available between 100 and 200 labels of minimum intervention wines mainly sourced from Europe, of which three to four bottles are available by the glass.