A creative culinary gamble, born in New York
Claim to fame: A couple of newcomers putting a welcome spit-shine on the Roma district
Reason to go: Exploring unique ingredients, sourced in exclusivity
To look out for: Cured meats and other homemade charcuteries
Having elbow-greased their way through some of New York’s most prestigious kitchens, husband and wife team Rodney Cusic and Mercedes Bernal decided to roll the dice in Mexico City’s Roma district, betting everything on Meroma, an ingredient-focused proposition enhanced by refined European techniques. Nestled on restaurant-packed Colima Street, its location couldn’t be better, but establishing a presence was still a challenge as the opening coincided with the 2017 earthquake. Step inside and you’re immediately greeted by a street-level lounge offering snacks and a thoughtful array of both classic and cutting-edge cocktails, it spills out into a small but handsome dining room that in turn leads to a narrow and thoroughly enticing balcony with five, six tables that overlook a serene corner of the neighborhood.
The menu boasts a smart selection of dishes: eight or nine appetizers, four main courses, and five desserts. Highlights include a now legendary crudo with pecans, topped with fried parsley and serrano chile, and beautiful orecchiette pasta with spicy lamb sausage. There are always a few perfectly crafted proteins like roasted duck with miso and chile glaze, and chicken with fermented chile paste. Fabulous as these might be, you should always inquire about the specials. Cusic and Bernal work with local, sustainable producers who supply them with unique and surprising, ultra-fresh ingredients that make up some ad hoc, daily delights. Also part of the duo’s creative repertoire: experiments in homemade charcuteries.